What municipalities are part of the LELE initiative?
How much $$ can LELE actually save?
What are some "best practices" that can benefit my landscape?
What is Leaf Mulch?
What equipment do I need to mulch my leaves?
My gardener doesn't have a lawn mower that mulches. Can he use his regular lawn mower? If not, where do you recommend buying a lawn mower that mulches? And what should I expect to pay?
Will shredded Fall leaves harm my lawn?
What about pine needles, pine cones, and acorns?
Will mowing the leaves into the lawn look messy?
After I mulch mow, I can still see brown leaf shreds on my lawn. Is this a problem?
When I mulch mow, the mower leaves a trail of not-fully-chopped leaves behind. What am I doing wrong?
What is the optimum size for my shredded leaf mulch?
It looks like the leaf mulch is too thick on my lawn after shredding them under my trees. What am I doing wrong?
What do you do when there isn't much lawn but you still have loads of leaves to clear?
What if I don't like the look of leaf mulch on my landscape beds?
Won't the leaf mulch run off when it rains?
Can I mow over the millions of acorns on my property? I am afraid they will break my mower! There are SO MANY this year!
Mulching and leaving leaves from trees infested with anthracnose or tar spot seems to a bad idea. What is the 'best practice' to follow?
Doesn’t shredding all of your leaves result in possibly shredding next year's generation of butterflies and moths?
Are ticks an issue due to Mulching-In-Place?
What can I do to reduce ticks in my yard?
Landscaper warning on breathing mold!
Warning: Watch out for raised irrigation heads.
What about leaf blowers?
What are some LELE Tips for Landscapers?
What is the 'Rolling Chop' technique?
How can I find out more about LELE trainings or on-site consultations?
Is there a list of local landscapers who provide LELE services?
What is Grass-Cycling?
How can I learn more about composting?
How can I learn more about Vermiposting?
What is GreenScaping?
I can't seem to view a file from the toolbox. What is wrong?
Can I really make use of Toolbox materials for free?
Last Updated: 10/29/19
What municipalities are part of the LELE initiative?
Download this list of Westchester towns and villages that are supporting LELE initiatives locally (.pdf).
Labels:
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municipalities,
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How much $$ can LELE actually save?
How much time and costs savings are actually possible at a municipal level from the reduction in County yard waste tipping fees, labor overtime, fuel & transportation costs, specialized equipment purchase and maintenance, prevention of storm drain clogging, etc.? Potential savings estimates range from $100k to over $750k at a municipal level, depending upon the municipality:
Note that these figures are estimates for budget spending for all organic yard waste handling. In actuality, a municipality should reasonable target a reduction of perhaps 50%-60% in budgetary costs due to continued handling of leaves and grass clippings in common areas and public easements. (Maximum possible savings will vary by municipality.)
County Statistics
During the Fall season (Oct-Dec), over 90% of all organic yard waste handled in the County is leaves. Over 60,000 tons of leaves! During the Summer months (May-Sept), 50% of yard waste is grass clippings. Over 38,000 tons. Removal of such yard waste from the County's waste stream could reduce total tonnage processed and transported out of the county by half! That's potentially a $4 Million savings.*
*Estimates supplied by the Westchester County DEF (Department of Environmental Facilities) based upon metrics gathered during 2010. See details in this report on Organic Waste Transfer.
| Municipality | Fall Cleanup (Est. Budget) |
| Irvington | $130k |
| Dobbs Ferry | $130k |
| Tarrytown | $175k |
| Greenburgh | $350k |
| Yonkers | $650k |
| Scarsdale | $760k |
| New Rochelle | $835k |
Note that these figures are estimates for budget spending for all organic yard waste handling. In actuality, a municipality should reasonable target a reduction of perhaps 50%-60% in budgetary costs due to continued handling of leaves and grass clippings in common areas and public easements. (Maximum possible savings will vary by municipality.)
County Statistics
During the Fall season (Oct-Dec), over 90% of all organic yard waste handled in the County is leaves. Over 60,000 tons of leaves! During the Summer months (May-Sept), 50% of yard waste is grass clippings. Over 38,000 tons. Removal of such yard waste from the County's waste stream could reduce total tonnage processed and transported out of the county by half! That's potentially a $4 Million savings.*
*Estimates supplied by the Westchester County DEF (Department of Environmental Facilities) based upon metrics gathered during 2010. See details in this report on Organic Waste Transfer.
What are some "best practices" that can benefit my landscape?
As the LELE initiative affirms, recycling organic yard debris on-site saves municipal tax dollars spent on collection and processing. There are many ways to reduce, reuse, and recycle grass clippings, leaves, brush and branches, and organic kitchen scraps.
Effective yard debris management reduces waste, recycles organic materials, and can help to beautify one's property.
Effective yard debris management reduces waste, recycles organic materials, and can help to beautify one's property.
What is Leaf Mulch?
Leaf mulch is the result of finely shredding fall leaves. As these fine leaf shreds decompose, the nutrients and minerals contained within the leaf are released, recycled into the soil. Additionally, the finely textured mulch adds air pockets to your soil, allowing better oxygenation, as well as enhanced water retention. Leaf mulch can be left in-place on the lawn, used as a landscape bed mulch or used in a compost pile.
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What equipment do I need to mulch my leaves?
If you are a homeowner, you can shred ’em using a mulching lawn mower, a leaf shredder, a leaf vacuum/shredder, or even a do-it-yourself setup using a weed whacker inside a trash can.
We recommend using a high-torque mower for mulching deep piles or wet leaves. A 7 ft-lb torque gas mower should work quite nicely. If using an electric mower, look for 12 amp or greater motor.
Note that some trial and error may be needed to adjust the mower height to an optimum level which balances leaving the grass cut high and keeping the in-process leaf shreds from blowing out too early from under the mower deck. A height of between 2.5"-3" is a good place to start.
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| Electric Mulch Mower |
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| Leaf Shredder |
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| Leaf Vacuum |
Note that some trial and error may be needed to adjust the mower height to an optimum level which balances leaving the grass cut high and keeping the in-process leaf shreds from blowing out too early from under the mower deck. A height of between 2.5"-3" is a good place to start.
If you are a professional landscaper, simply operate your mower in "mulching" configuration (with the deck plate shut). The after-market Vulcher 2 is an example of a professional-grade mulch door accessory.
You should also make use of specially winged Gator Mulching Blades which are designed to maximize shredding. (Mulching blades are typically the same cost as a regular blade and fit all standard manufacturers' mowers.) Remember to keep your mower blades sharp!
You should also make use of specially winged Gator Mulching Blades which are designed to maximize shredding. (Mulching blades are typically the same cost as a regular blade and fit all standard manufacturers' mowers.) Remember to keep your mower blades sharp!
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Commercial Mower |
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| Gator Blade |
My gardener doesn't have a lawn mower that mulches. Can he use his regular lawn mower? If not, where do you recommend buying a lawn mower that mulches? And what should I expect to pay?
A regular mower will not give the best results, esp. with deep layers of leaves. This is because the mower will expel the leaves from underneath the deck before they are fully chopped into small shreds. Even with repeated passes over the leaves, the result may not be acceptable.
What is needed is either a mulching kit accessory (for the existing mower) which closes off the output port of the mower deck, or an upgrade to a true mulching mower.
Many companies make mulching mowers for both homeowner market and for the professional landscaper market. Under the Homeowner tab (near the bottom of the page), there are links to various product pages. One of these links is to an Amazon.com page of walk-behind mulching mowers (consumer grade, not professional grade). Such mowers can range between $150 to $350 depending upon brand, size of blade and so forth. (Professional landscaper mowers are typically more expensive.)
Mulching mowers can also be found at Home Depot, Sears, and other similar stores.
We recommend that if selecting a gas powered mower, a mower with at least 7 ft-lbs of torque be chosen. If selecting an electric mower, a 12 or 14 amp motor is good.
For further information, see this FAQ: What equipment do I need to mulch my leaves?
What is needed is either a mulching kit accessory (for the existing mower) which closes off the output port of the mower deck, or an upgrade to a true mulching mower.
Many companies make mulching mowers for both homeowner market and for the professional landscaper market. Under the Homeowner tab (near the bottom of the page), there are links to various product pages. One of these links is to an Amazon.com page of walk-behind mulching mowers (consumer grade, not professional grade). Such mowers can range between $150 to $350 depending upon brand, size of blade and so forth. (Professional landscaper mowers are typically more expensive.)
Mulching mowers can also be found at Home Depot, Sears, and other similar stores.
We recommend that if selecting a gas powered mower, a mower with at least 7 ft-lbs of torque be chosen. If selecting an electric mower, a 12 or 14 amp motor is good.
For further information, see this FAQ: What equipment do I need to mulch my leaves?
Labels:
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Will shredded Fall leaves harm my lawn?
Many landscapers (such as out trainers) have been doing LELE for a number of years - they would not be doing this process if the results damaged the turf quality the following year! (Read their testimonials.)
Scientific research concerning leaf mulching on turf has been compiled by LELE team and by folks at the Westchester Cornell Cooperative Extension offices.
Scientific research concerning leaf mulching on turf has been compiled by LELE team and by folks at the Westchester Cornell Cooperative Extension offices.
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Paul Wagner,
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USDA,
video
What about pine needles, pine cones, and acorns?
You will probably want to remove pine needles, pine corns and acorns from your lawn areas to prevent damage to your turf.
But keep in mind that pine needles are a good landscape mulch for acid loving plants like blueberries, mountain laurel, rhododendrum. Pine needles can also be very attractive simply left around the tree itself where they fall as they make a colorful, fragrant, and protective bed.
Positives about pine cones and acorns is that they can produce new trees and are important food sources for local wildlife. On the other hand, depending on your property design, too many can create an aesthetic impact and/or pose a tripping hazard. Some years oak trees produce huge amounts of acorns ("masting years"), while in other years none at all. As a property owner, you will need to decide each year where on the property you might keep some of the pine cones and acorns for wildlife feed. The surplus will need to be bagged and put out on the curb with yard waste (or perhaps placed into an active, hot compost pile).
But keep in mind that pine needles are a good landscape mulch for acid loving plants like blueberries, mountain laurel, rhododendrum. Pine needles can also be very attractive simply left around the tree itself where they fall as they make a colorful, fragrant, and protective bed.
Positives about pine cones and acorns is that they can produce new trees and are important food sources for local wildlife. On the other hand, depending on your property design, too many can create an aesthetic impact and/or pose a tripping hazard. Some years oak trees produce huge amounts of acorns ("masting years"), while in other years none at all. As a property owner, you will need to decide each year where on the property you might keep some of the pine cones and acorns for wildlife feed. The surplus will need to be bagged and put out on the curb with yard waste (or perhaps placed into an active, hot compost pile).
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Will mowing the leaves into the lawn look messy?
Most homeowners don't realize the landscaper is doing anything different after they switch to mulching-in-place. The shredded mulch generally cannot be seen on the lawn. Sometimes, if the leaf layer is very thick, you may need to make two passes to mulch all the leaves. Landscaping mowers equipped with mulching fittings reduce the leaves to such tiny fragments that you don't see them at all.
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After I mulch mow, I can still see brown leaf shreds on my lawn. Is this a problem?
After mulching you may see leaf shreds both on the surface of the grass and in between the blades of grass. But they should not be of the density or size (under 1" square) that will block light and/or smother the turf. Over the winter, those leaf shreds on top of the grass should fall into the root zone soil, as well. There, they will decompose naturally by mid to late spring.
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| Lawn showing shredded leaves (on right) after one pass of mulching mower. |
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When I mulch mow, the mower leaves a trail of not-fully-chopped leaves behind. What am I doing wrong?
There is often some confusion about the "rowing" of chopped leaves left behind the mower. This is typically an issue during the late fall's peak leaf drop accumulation. When you’re processing large piles and heavier volumes, such "rowing" can be expected, requiring a second pass. For greatest efficiency, keep pushing the processing into the pile of unprocessed, meaning in a clock-wise motion.
Take on no more than 2/3 or 3/4 of a deck's width of material at a time. With a full deck's width, you may be making the machine work too hard, often resulting in the “toss” of some un-chopped leaves right out the front and sides of the mower deck - it's simply a case of too many leaves at a time for the mower.
In every pass over the leaves, you want to strive to get the absolute perfect amount under the deck. No more-no less… It’s and experience thing. Your eyes and ears (mower engine sound) will tell you what you need to know.
Take on no more than 2/3 or 3/4 of a deck's width of material at a time. With a full deck's width, you may be making the machine work too hard, often resulting in the “toss” of some un-chopped leaves right out the front and sides of the mower deck - it's simply a case of too many leaves at a time for the mower.
In every pass over the leaves, you want to strive to get the absolute perfect amount under the deck. No more-no less… It’s and experience thing. Your eyes and ears (mower engine sound) will tell you what you need to know.
Labels:
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What is the optimum size for my shredded leaf mulch?
Leaf shreds should be about 1" square maximum. When commercial mowers are used by landscapers, shred size is often much finer than this.
Labels:
homeowner,
landscaper,
leaf mulch
It looks like the leaf mulch is too thick on my lawn after shredding them under my trees. What am I doing wrong?
As the fallen leaves build up deep under large shade trees or if they are wet, a single pass of a mulching mower is often not sufficient to sufficiently shred them into small pieces. Sometimes several passes over the area will be required. (For best effect, mow "across the grain" on each pass.)
For really deep pile of leaves, there are a couple of techniques to try: you can spread the leaves out (thin the layer) into other areas of the lawn before shredding. Alternately, a leaf blower can be used post-shred to help "even out" the mulch over-burden across the lawn and/or into landscape beds.
A deep pile of leaves can be "attacked" by raising up the front of the mower and coming down on top of the pile, over and over, to pre-shred. Then perform a normal pass with the mower.
Other possible factors? The height of the mower deck (thus the blade height) might need to be adjusted lower to keep leaf shreds under the mower and in the blade path longer. Is the mulch gate (deck door) closed? Perhaps the blades have not been sharpened recently?
For really deep pile of leaves, there are a couple of techniques to try: you can spread the leaves out (thin the layer) into other areas of the lawn before shredding. Alternately, a leaf blower can be used post-shred to help "even out" the mulch over-burden across the lawn and/or into landscape beds.
A deep pile of leaves can be "attacked" by raising up the front of the mower and coming down on top of the pile, over and over, to pre-shred. Then perform a normal pass with the mower.
Other possible factors? The height of the mower deck (thus the blade height) might need to be adjusted lower to keep leaf shreds under the mower and in the blade path longer. Is the mulch gate (deck door) closed? Perhaps the blades have not been sharpened recently?
Labels:
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wet leaves
What do you do when there isn't much lawn but you still have loads of leaves to clear?
Rake or blow the leaves into long strips on the driveway, (the strips can be up to 2 ft deep) and mow over them with your mower. The pile will reduce in volume about 10-fold and you can blow the mulch back onto the landscape beds or around trees & shrubs.
The one “problem” area in your landscape may be your perennial beds including any ground cover areas. Whole fallen leaves can be heavy and damp (especially oak and sycamore) and may create bad air flow and drainage, leading to risk of perennial crown rot in some species. Carefully pull, vacuum, or blow off the leaves from the beds, then shred and apply the fluffy mulch directly back onto the same beds.
To see just how great natural leaf mulch can look, check out this Fine Gardening video of gardener Sydney Eddison showing how she uses shredded leaves to mulch her perennial beds.
The one “problem” area in your landscape may be your perennial beds including any ground cover areas. Whole fallen leaves can be heavy and damp (especially oak and sycamore) and may create bad air flow and drainage, leading to risk of perennial crown rot in some species. Carefully pull, vacuum, or blow off the leaves from the beds, then shred and apply the fluffy mulch directly back onto the same beds.
To see just how great natural leaf mulch can look, check out this Fine Gardening video of gardener Sydney Eddison showing how she uses shredded leaves to mulch her perennial beds.
Labels:
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ground covers,
homeowner,
how to videos,
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perennials,
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What if I don't like the look of leaf mulch on my landscape beds?
Some people prefer the look of commercial mulches. In that case, use a leaf mulch about 3" deep and top it off with a cosmetic layer (1") of commercial mulch. This way you are still using the leaves productively.
Labels:
homeowner,
landscape beds,
landscaper,
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Won't the leaf mulch run off when it rains?
In general the (finely shredded) leaf mulch stays right where you left it, especially when it rains. It begins to break down immediately and improves the structure of the soil.
Labels:
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landscape beds,
landscaper,
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Can I mow over the millions of acorns on my property? I am afraid they will break my mower! There are SO MANY this year!
Acorns are either too heavy and won’t be sucked up, and/or the mower setting/blade height won’t put the blade any where near the acorns.
You can gather them if they present a condition which either tracks the cracked broken shells in the house, or creates a concern for an unwanted 'roller skating' condition.
One nice "green" idea is to gather them up and put them off to the side, so the wild life can still have the natural food source.
You can gather them if they present a condition which either tracks the cracked broken shells in the house, or creates a concern for an unwanted 'roller skating' condition.
One nice "green" idea is to gather them up and put them off to the side, so the wild life can still have the natural food source.
Mulching and leaving leaves from trees infested with anthracnose or tar spot seems to a bad idea. What is the 'best practice' to follow?
Question:
I have a very large Norway maple that almost always has leaves infected with anthracnose and sometimes tar spot, depending on the weather during the spring and summer. I have always read that it is important to rake up all the infected leaves and dispose of them in order to minimize re-infection the following year. Mulching and leaving the leaves with the fungus on them seems to contradict this. I would love to avoid the work involved in disposing of the infected leaves, but it seems too good to be true. Please comment.
Answer:
Although we don’t have any scientific studies of how mulch mowing might affect disease inoculum survival and dispersal, we also don’t have evidence to suggest that it makes these disease issues worse in an urban forest environment (e.g.; a wooded neighborhood) where Norway maples are fairly common and where other factors could be at work to influence over-wintering and subsequent dispersal. With anthracnose in particular, the inoculum source is not likely to be just on the leaves.
One expert suggests that tar spot tends to be very prevalent for a year or two and then has been observed to become much less dramatic, even when no one takes any action at all. Weather fluctuations and other competing pathogens will most likely affect tar spot build up over time, as well.
Thus you have a personal choice: either perform a practice such as LELE mulch mowing that could increase organic matter in your lawn’s soil, and that could in turn benefit both your trees and your turf; OR DO NOT employ this practice on the chance that removing leaves will lessen the occurrence of said commonly occurring diseases (in this case, on an invasive species).
Your observations over time, concerning whatever path you choose, would be interesting to document and share.
I have a very large Norway maple that almost always has leaves infected with anthracnose and sometimes tar spot, depending on the weather during the spring and summer. I have always read that it is important to rake up all the infected leaves and dispose of them in order to minimize re-infection the following year. Mulching and leaving the leaves with the fungus on them seems to contradict this. I would love to avoid the work involved in disposing of the infected leaves, but it seems too good to be true. Please comment.
Answer:
Although we don’t have any scientific studies of how mulch mowing might affect disease inoculum survival and dispersal, we also don’t have evidence to suggest that it makes these disease issues worse in an urban forest environment (e.g.; a wooded neighborhood) where Norway maples are fairly common and where other factors could be at work to influence over-wintering and subsequent dispersal. With anthracnose in particular, the inoculum source is not likely to be just on the leaves.
One expert suggests that tar spot tends to be very prevalent for a year or two and then has been observed to become much less dramatic, even when no one takes any action at all. Weather fluctuations and other competing pathogens will most likely affect tar spot build up over time, as well.
Thus you have a personal choice: either perform a practice such as LELE mulch mowing that could increase organic matter in your lawn’s soil, and that could in turn benefit both your trees and your turf; OR DO NOT employ this practice on the chance that removing leaves will lessen the occurrence of said commonly occurring diseases (in this case, on an invasive species).
Your observations over time, concerning whatever path you choose, would be interesting to document and share.
Doesn’t shredding all of your leaves result in possibly shredding next year's generation of butterflies and moths?
It is certainly true that many caterpillars or pupae (whether in a cocoon or chrysalis) overwinter attached to a stem of the host tree or may drop down in the leaf litter. While mulch mowing will, as you point out, cause casualties for creatures clinging to fallen leaves that are then shredded, it is also clear that overwintering butterflies and moths have little chance of survival if the leaves they happen to be attached to are raked up, piled at the curb, vacuumed up and carted away to a commercial composting facility.
As a general observation, since grass does not survive under cover of whole leaves, most homeowners and property managers remove them every fall. In this context, mulch mowing is the most environmentally-friendly way to enable people to maintain their lawns and to better utilize rather than remove leaves from their property.
It would definitely be a good outcome if more people will think twice about the needs of the tiger swallowtail, the crecopia, and other gorgeous and important lepidopterans, and how they can support these creatures by providing their specific native host plants. In the fall, the clean-up strategy should allow for at least some whole leaf litter to remain untouched around the base of host plants in landscape beds, yard margins, or wooded areas, wherever feasible on their property, thus increasing the odds of survival for these overwintering insects.
Here is an interesting article (also podcast) from 'A Way To Garden' website which discusses various techniques to use during Fall cleanup to protect and encourage wildlife (esp. insects and birds): A saner approach to fall cleanup, with the Habitat Network’s Rhiannon Crain (pdf). OR listen to the podcast.
It would definitely be a good outcome if more people will think twice about the needs of the tiger swallowtail, the crecopia, and other gorgeous and important lepidopterans, and how they can support these creatures by providing their specific native host plants. In the fall, the clean-up strategy should allow for at least some whole leaf litter to remain untouched around the base of host plants in landscape beds, yard margins, or wooded areas, wherever feasible on their property, thus increasing the odds of survival for these overwintering insects.
Here is an interesting article (also podcast) from 'A Way To Garden' website which discusses various techniques to use during Fall cleanup to protect and encourage wildlife (esp. insects and birds): A saner approach to fall cleanup, with the Habitat Network’s Rhiannon Crain (pdf). OR listen to the podcast.
Labels:
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Are ticks an issue due to Mulching-In-Place?
LELE leaf mulching, when done with appropriate equipment and easy-to-learn techniques, results in very finely shredded leaf mulch. This is not what is termed in the scientific literature as “leaf litter.” Leaf litter consists of piles of whole leaves, typically found under trees and/or at yard margins such as along a fence, wall, or foundation. Leaf litter may be an attractive home to ticks.
While there are no specific studies yet published on the impact of LELE practices on tick populations in suburban lawn areas, the available research allows one to reasonably conclude that there should be no increase in tick populations due to the fine mulching/shredding of leaves. In fact, population reduction would be expected. One important factor leading to this conclusion is that shredded leaves differ significantly from whole leaves since they provide a micro-environment that is lower temperature and humidity, thus an environment less hospitable to ticks.
The recommended LELE practice of leaving leaves alone in wooded areas should not cause any increase in ticks: the net impact will not be significantly different from naturally occurring levels. Other environmental factors including rodent population levels and acorn crop density will have a more direct effect on increased tick populations. Because of this, composting mulched leaves and/or grass clippings along with food waste, if undertaken by the homeowner, should be carefully monitored for rodent attraction.
Note also that there has been reports of a greater density of ticks in leaf litter under Barberry shrubs.
Read more background - what we know about ticks - an interview with Dr. Rick Ostfeld of The Cary Institute.
Listen to a podcast from "A Way To Garden" concerning the latest on backyard tick research, with Dr. Neeta Connally.
Final thoughts from a sustainability perspective:
What LELE practices provide at their heart is the low-cost restoration of a natural waste management cycle back into the landscape, by allowing the nutrients locked up into leaves to be re-cycled into the soil (on lawns or in garden beds). By the simple technique of finely shredding such leaves, the breakdown and decomposition of said materials occurs at an accelerated rate. Soil quality, water retention, and plant health are all improved.
Complete removal of leaves from properties, suggested by some as a solution to ticks, actually robs both your soil and plants of much needed nutrients and micro-nutrients, and incurs associated costs in higher erosion, loss of biodiversity, damage to roots and re-generating seedlings, and disruption of natural aesthetics.
Read a more detailed analysis surveying some available tick research in this context.
While there are no specific studies yet published on the impact of LELE practices on tick populations in suburban lawn areas, the available research allows one to reasonably conclude that there should be no increase in tick populations due to the fine mulching/shredding of leaves. In fact, population reduction would be expected. One important factor leading to this conclusion is that shredded leaves differ significantly from whole leaves since they provide a micro-environment that is lower temperature and humidity, thus an environment less hospitable to ticks.
The recommended LELE practice of leaving leaves alone in wooded areas should not cause any increase in ticks: the net impact will not be significantly different from naturally occurring levels. Other environmental factors including rodent population levels and acorn crop density will have a more direct effect on increased tick populations. Because of this, composting mulched leaves and/or grass clippings along with food waste, if undertaken by the homeowner, should be carefully monitored for rodent attraction.
Note also that there has been reports of a greater density of ticks in leaf litter under Barberry shrubs.
Read more background - what we know about ticks - an interview with Dr. Rick Ostfeld of The Cary Institute.
Listen to a podcast from "A Way To Garden" concerning the latest on backyard tick research, with Dr. Neeta Connally.
Final thoughts from a sustainability perspective:
What LELE practices provide at their heart is the low-cost restoration of a natural waste management cycle back into the landscape, by allowing the nutrients locked up into leaves to be re-cycled into the soil (on lawns or in garden beds). By the simple technique of finely shredding such leaves, the breakdown and decomposition of said materials occurs at an accelerated rate. Soil quality, water retention, and plant health are all improved.
Complete removal of leaves from properties, suggested by some as a solution to ticks, actually robs both your soil and plants of much needed nutrients and micro-nutrients, and incurs associated costs in higher erosion, loss of biodiversity, damage to roots and re-generating seedlings, and disruption of natural aesthetics.
Read a more detailed analysis surveying some available tick research in this context.
What can I do to reduce ticks in my yard?
Details on how to manage your yard to reduce ticks in a sustainable manner can be found in this handout from Pollinator Pathways:
Pesticides kill beneficial insects, like the bees and butterflies that pollinate the plants around us, and wash into waterways degrading water quality and harming aquatic life. They are also toxic to pets and people.
Instead of spraying to kill ticks:
Rid your yard of Japanese barberry, which has been proven to harbor the white-footed mouse and the deer ticks that accompany them. The best pesticide-free method to control this invasive plant is to cut it back in March before the leaves come out and dig out the root system.
Keep play areas for pets and children mowed. Mow the part of the yard you use to discourage ticks, which prefer tall grasses or shade to protect from extreme temperature changes.
Plant native pollinator-friendly plants that will draw a healthy mix of beneficial insects and birds to your yard. Birds eat insects, including ticks. (Plant lists available at Pollinator-pathway.org and Xerces.org.)
Consider including these plants that repel ticks:
• American beautyberry, a native plant that also provides berries for birds
• Fleabane daisies
• Mountain mint, also a wonderful source of nectar for pollinators
• Garlic, Lavender, Rosemary, Sage, Mint, dill
• Dutch white clover
• New England asters
Put up bird and bat houses to draw insect-eating birds and bats to your yard. Bats can eat 2000 insects per day and one opossum will eat 5000 ticks per season.
If you must spray, consider non-toxic botanical repellants instead of poisons. The botanical product that has been tested for its effectiveness against black-legged ticks is garlic oil (Hays and Stafford, Journal of Medical Entomology, March 30, 2015). The study concludes that garlic oil could provide a minimal-risk option for control of ticks. More information can be obtained from Mosquito Barrier which sells a garlic product that can be used for mosquitoes, ticks and other insect pests. Garlic will repel pests rather than killing them. The royal gardens in England are treated with garlic spray, despite the odor which dissipates after a day.
The best way to protect from ticks is to apply repellant to clothing before going into high grasses or woods, wear light-colored clothes, tuck pants into socks, always check yourself, your children, and your pets for ticks after you come in.
For more information, visit Norwalkriver.org/landscape-responsibly/
Landscape to Repel Ticks Without Using Pesticides
Pesticides kill beneficial insects, like the bees and butterflies that pollinate the plants around us, and wash into waterways degrading water quality and harming aquatic life. They are also toxic to pets and people.
Instead of spraying to kill ticks:
Rid your yard of Japanese barberry, which has been proven to harbor the white-footed mouse and the deer ticks that accompany them. The best pesticide-free method to control this invasive plant is to cut it back in March before the leaves come out and dig out the root system.
Keep play areas for pets and children mowed. Mow the part of the yard you use to discourage ticks, which prefer tall grasses or shade to protect from extreme temperature changes.
Plant native pollinator-friendly plants that will draw a healthy mix of beneficial insects and birds to your yard. Birds eat insects, including ticks. (Plant lists available at Pollinator-pathway.org and Xerces.org.)
Consider including these plants that repel ticks:
• American beautyberry, a native plant that also provides berries for birds
• Fleabane daisies
• Mountain mint, also a wonderful source of nectar for pollinators
• Garlic, Lavender, Rosemary, Sage, Mint, dill
• Dutch white clover
• New England asters
Put up bird and bat houses to draw insect-eating birds and bats to your yard. Bats can eat 2000 insects per day and one opossum will eat 5000 ticks per season.
If you must spray, consider non-toxic botanical repellants instead of poisons. The botanical product that has been tested for its effectiveness against black-legged ticks is garlic oil (Hays and Stafford, Journal of Medical Entomology, March 30, 2015). The study concludes that garlic oil could provide a minimal-risk option for control of ticks. More information can be obtained from Mosquito Barrier which sells a garlic product that can be used for mosquitoes, ticks and other insect pests. Garlic will repel pests rather than killing them. The royal gardens in England are treated with garlic spray, despite the odor which dissipates after a day.
The best way to protect from ticks is to apply repellant to clothing before going into high grasses or woods, wear light-colored clothes, tuck pants into socks, always check yourself, your children, and your pets for ticks after you come in.
For more information, visit Norwalkriver.org/landscape-responsibly/
Labels:
lawn,
leaf mulch,
mulching-in-place,
Pollinator Pathways,
problems,
ticks
Landscaper warning on breathing mold!
Microscopic dust inhaled while working around rotting organic matter can contain mold spores that produce a chronic fungal infection that causes damage to the lungs and sinuses. This fungus may be present in materials such as compost heaps and in piles of rotting leaves. To protect against breathing in the spores, experts advise wearing masks when these materials are likely to be at hand, such as when bedding down gardens for the winter.
Read the full article from LandscapeOnline.com for more details concerning fungal mold spores in piles of leaf compost.
Read the full article from LandscapeOnline.com for more details concerning fungal mold spores in piles of leaf compost.
Labels:
compost,
fungus infection,
health warning,
leaf mulch,
mold,
problems
Warning: Watch out for raised irrigation heads.
This time of year, lawn service companies are clearing out irrigation systems "to put them to bed" before the ground freezes. Compressed air is blown into the pipes to force water out of the system. In this process, the spray heads may get stuck in the extended (raised) position. With a covering of newly fallen leaves, the stuck heads may not be visible. After the irrigation clean-out has been done, always check the various zones carefully before the first mulch mow!
Labels:
irrigation,
landscaper,
problems
What about leaf blowers?
The focus of LELE initiative is promoting and protecting soil and water quality, as well as reducing organic yard waste from the solid waste stream thereby saving money (in terms of labor, transportation & handling fees, gas, etc.).
LELE is not an effort to eliminate leaf blowers (in spite of the various health, air quality, and soil issues that Leaf blowers create). Already in Westchester County, all landscapers and homeowners are supposed to be using the newer, cleaner, more efficient 4-cycle leaf blowers and lawn mowers.
As to the use of leaf blowers during the actual LELE process, there are a number of instances where such use is required:
In the overall scheme of things, LELE methodology will typically reduce leaf blower use, although specific tasks (as outlined above) must still be assigned to their use.
In addition, it is still up to the landscaping crew supervisor to train workers about the importance of not leaving leaf blowers, lawn mowers, and similar gas-powered tools idling while other tasks are being performed. Or waste gas and create excess noise & pollution while chasing a single leaf around a client's property.
In many municipalities, leaf blower bans are being discussed and some have been enacted. The bans tend to be seasonal, with fall and early spring being the allowed times for use. Exceptions are often provided for extreme weather events and for municipal DPW/Parks staff. Some restrict the total number of units allowed to be operated simultaneously by a work crew.
LELE is not an effort to eliminate leaf blowers (in spite of the various health, air quality, and soil issues that Leaf blowers create). Already in Westchester County, all landscapers and homeowners are supposed to be using the newer, cleaner, more efficient 4-cycle leaf blowers and lawn mowers.
As to the use of leaf blowers during the actual LELE process, there are a number of instances where such use is required:
- gathering leaves from driveways, walkways and other paved areas, and thence moving them to a location (typically on lawn) where they can be mulch-mowed.
- moving excess mulched leaves into yard margins such as landscape beds. (Effectively creates winter mulch.)
- balancing out (spreading out) mulched leaves across the lawn to achieve a more even layer. (Note that nearer to trees or wooded margins, the concentration of leaves will typically be much higher than other more open areas of the lawn. Thus, the goal is to ensure that the buildup of 'leaf chippings' does not get too deep in any one spot - which would negatively affect lawn health.)
In the overall scheme of things, LELE methodology will typically reduce leaf blower use, although specific tasks (as outlined above) must still be assigned to their use.
In addition, it is still up to the landscaping crew supervisor to train workers about the importance of not leaving leaf blowers, lawn mowers, and similar gas-powered tools idling while other tasks are being performed. Or waste gas and create excess noise & pollution while chasing a single leaf around a client's property.
In many municipalities, leaf blower bans are being discussed and some have been enacted. The bans tend to be seasonal, with fall and early spring being the allowed times for use. Exceptions are often provided for extreme weather events and for municipal DPW/Parks staff. Some restrict the total number of units allowed to be operated simultaneously by a work crew.
Labels:
landscaper,
leaf blower,
problems,
time savings
What are some LELE Tips for Landscapers?
Some simple tips for effective and efficient mulch mowing from landscapers experienced with LELE practices in the field:
- SLOW DOWN! Mulch mowing is different than grass mowing. (Slower speed allows finer leaf chop.)
- Install mulching blades (e.g.; “Gator" blades or mower brand-specific blades) on mowers.
- Close the mulch plate on the mower deck.
- Keep your mower blades well-sharpened.
- Mow grass high through the fall so that leaf shreds can settle between grass blades.
- Adjust the blade height to 2.5-4 inches high. (You'll need to experiment to determine optimum setting for your mower and site turf conditions to maximize leaf chop and minimize throw from under the deck.)
- Mulch when leaves are dry or semi-damp, whenever possible.
- Take on no more than 2/3 or 3/4 of a deck's width of material at a time. (With a full deck's width, you may be making the machine work too hard, often resulting in the “toss” of some un-chopped leaves right out the front and sides of the mower deck - it's simply a case of too many leaves at a time for the mower.)
- Face mower discharge to the work-to-be-done side for easy re-grind when necessary.
- If required, multi-pass to shred leaves completely (around 1" square is target size).
- On subsequent passes, use a criss-cross pattern over the lawn to minimize rutting.
- With deep leaf piles, raise the front of the mower to "attack" into the pile, then lower deck back down. Repeat this "raise & lower" chopping technique as required. (Hint: a counter weight on the rear of the deck helps reduce the effort to raise/tilt the chassis.)
- Blow excess leaf shred on surface of turf across a wider lawn area to even out. Excess shred can also be blown into nearby landscape beds as a mulch.
- Mulch mow collected leaves next to a target area where you desire to use the resulting mulch.
- Learn the ROLLING CHOP technique to allow the mulcher man to work in concert with the man with the blower so that in a short time, everything is processed "in situ." (See details here.)
What is the 'Rolling Chop' technique?
One important technique is to have your crew create long row-piles of leaves: instead of waiting for them to gather everything into a pretty pile, you can start at the far end of the row, mulching into 1/4 or 1/3 of the pile while they continue to wrangle leaves onto the other end. This way, no one is having to stop their task flow or creating working space and safety conflicts. The “setters” can keep building and setting the leaves for processing, and the "mulcher man" won’t have to stop and wait, he can keep processing. Some of the crew can advance onto the next space and some can drop back behind the mulcher man to “dust off” (even out) the tiny chips. It’s what we call the ROLLING CHOP.
The ROLLING CHOP is absolutely the best approach when it’s windy, too. You are quickly on the leaf rows the setters are making, very few leaves have the exposure to get caught by the wind potentially shifting about and creating a mess.
Learning the ROLLING CHOP allows the mulcher man to work in concert with the man with the blower so that in a short time, everything is processed "in situ" (and you can move on to the next yard space). No dragging of barrels, tarps, blowing/pushing piles long distances to curbside, or lifting/loading into trucks. The goal is to handle all the leaves on the ground where they lie with great ease, resulting in an efficient, time saving effort.
The ROLLING CHOP is absolutely the best approach when it’s windy, too. You are quickly on the leaf rows the setters are making, very few leaves have the exposure to get caught by the wind potentially shifting about and creating a mess.
Learning the ROLLING CHOP allows the mulcher man to work in concert with the man with the blower so that in a short time, everything is processed "in situ" (and you can move on to the next yard space). No dragging of barrels, tarps, blowing/pushing piles long distances to curbside, or lifting/loading into trucks. The goal is to handle all the leaves on the ground where they lie with great ease, resulting in an efficient, time saving effort.
Labels:
best practices,
blowing,
landscaper,
mulch plate,
mulching mower,
rolling chop,
row-piles
How can I find out more about LELE trainings or on-site consultations?
Training of LELE techniques is planned for Fall 2012 around the county. Please refer to the Events page for currently scheduled locations. If you want more information, or if your municipality or environmental group would like to host a training session, contact Anne Jaffe Holmes (see below) to discuss program details.
If you are a landscaper or municipal staff and would like an on-site demonstration of effective, time-saving and cost-reducing techniques for mulching leaves and grass right into your property, contact Anne Jaffe Holmes (see below) to schedule a free consultation.
Contact Anne Jaffe Holmes at the Greenburgh Nature Center: 914-813-1251. Or email her at info@leleny.org.
If you are a landscaper or municipal staff and would like an on-site demonstration of effective, time-saving and cost-reducing techniques for mulching leaves and grass right into your property, contact Anne Jaffe Holmes (see below) to schedule a free consultation.
Contact Anne Jaffe Holmes at the Greenburgh Nature Center: 914-813-1251. Or email her at info@leleny.org.
What is Grass-Cycling?
Grass-cycling simply refers to the process of leaving your grass clippings in place on your lawn as you mow. Since your mower is left in its "mulching" configuration, mowing both grass and fall leaves provides a 3-season solution to lawn care, while yielding all of the benefits discussed on this site (e.g.; time savings, cost savings, green house gas reductions, soil enhancement).
The average lawn produces 1,500 pounds of grass clippings - clippings from a 1,000 square foot lawn contribute 1/2 to 1 pound of nitrogen back into the soil. Clippings can provide up to 1/3 of the annual feeding requirements of your lawn. Clippings left in place can also help block weed germination.*
Note that according to Cornell recommendations, for best effect, grass should be mowed no lower than 3" to 3.5" and your mower blades should be kept sharp. If the grass is wet, several passes may be required to effectively (finely) mulch the cut blades. Done properly, grass-cycling will not create a buildup of thatch.
* From presentation on Backyard Conservation - Lawn Care Practices developed by the Ohio Federation of Soil and Water Conservation Districts. (Summary taken from slides 10 & 11. See also slides 12-14 for more discussion of leaf mulching.) Read the entire presentation with speaker's notes (.pdf) on grass-cycling, leaf mulching, and water management in turf care. Also, be sure to get their 4 Simple Steps to Lawn Care.
The average lawn produces 1,500 pounds of grass clippings - clippings from a 1,000 square foot lawn contribute 1/2 to 1 pound of nitrogen back into the soil. Clippings can provide up to 1/3 of the annual feeding requirements of your lawn. Clippings left in place can also help block weed germination.*
Note that according to Cornell recommendations, for best effect, grass should be mowed no lower than 3" to 3.5" and your mower blades should be kept sharp. If the grass is wet, several passes may be required to effectively (finely) mulch the cut blades. Done properly, grass-cycling will not create a buildup of thatch.
* From presentation on Backyard Conservation - Lawn Care Practices developed by the Ohio Federation of Soil and Water Conservation Districts. (Summary taken from slides 10 & 11. See also slides 12-14 for more discussion of leaf mulching.) Read the entire presentation with speaker's notes (.pdf) on grass-cycling, leaf mulching, and water management in turf care. Also, be sure to get their 4 Simple Steps to Lawn Care.
- Get the Westchester County Brochure about Grasscycling.
- Get the Ohio Federation of Soil & Water Conservation Districts Brochure on Backyard Conservation: Lawns and the Environment.
- Get the Ohio Federation of Soil & Water Conservation Districts powerpoint presentation (as a .pdf) concerning Backyard Conservation.
- Get the Montgomery County. MD brochure (.pdf) on Grasscycling - highly recommended.
- Get this short article filled with Grasscycling tips (.pdf).
- Get this article on "The Benefits of Mulching Explained" (.pdf).
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